Rumbledethumps and the Fine Art of Making Mash Better
Rumbledethumps sounds like something that happens upstairs when a wardrobe falls over. In the Scottish Borders, however, it means buttery potatoes, tender cabbage and a golden cheese crust. The name promises considerably more commotion than the cooking delivers. Most of the work involves boiling, mashing and waiting for someone to ask whether they can have the corner piece.
The dish comes from the Scottish Borders, where it made good use of leftover vegetables. Yesterday’s mash and cabbage could become tonight’s supper with a little butter and time in the oven. There’s no need to wait for leftovers, though. Freshly cooked potatoes make a fluffier base, and cabbage softened in butter keeps a little bite beneath the crust. abdn.ac.uk
Across Britain and Ireland, cooks have found plenty of ways to make potatoes and greens worth a second helping. English bubble and squeak gets its crisp edges from the frying pan, while Irish colcannon folds cabbage or kale into buttery mash. The Scottish Highlands have a close cousin in kailkenny. Rumbledethumps earns its place at the table with an oven-browned top that everyone can reach with a serving spoon. abdn.ac.uk
Some cooks mash swede into the potatoes, giving the dish a mellow sweetness. Kale, meanwhile, brings a stronger flavour than Savoy cabbage and keeps more of its texture. You can leave the cheese off, although a handful of mature cheddar gives the mash a savoury edge. Drag a fork over the surface before adding it. The ridges catch the oven heat and give you more of the crisp bits.
A malty Scottish ale is a natural match, especially if sausages and onion gravy are involved. Alternatively, dry cider cuts through the butter and cheese. Sharp apple juice makes a good alcohol-free pairing. For a meat-free supper, serve a generous helping with mustard-dressed lentils and a few pickled onions. Alongside a roast, give it a plate with enough room for gravy to pool around the edges.
Potatoes make it filling, and the cabbage adds fibre and vitamin C. The butter and cheddar contribute saturated fat, while the cheese adds salt. If you want a lighter version, use a little less butter and grate a strong cheddar finely so a smaller amount covers the dish. As a main course, it’s particularly good with beans or lentils and something sharp on the side.
Rumbledethumps Recipe
This serves four as a generous side or two as a main with something alongside. Allow about an hour from peeling the potatoes to breaking through the cheese crust.
You’ll need 800g floury potatoes such as Maris Piper, 250g Savoy cabbage, 50g unsalted butter, 75g mature cheddar, fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. For the swede version, replace 250g of the potatoes with peeled swede and cut it into smaller pieces so it cooks in roughly the same time.
Heat the oven to 200°C, 180°C fan or gas mark 6. Lightly butter a shallow, 1.5-litre ovenproof dish. Peel the potatoes, cut them into even chunks and put them in a pan of cold salted water. Bring to the boil and simmer for 15–20 minutes, until a knife slides easily into the centre.
Meanwhile, cut away the cabbage’s thick stalks and finely shred the leaves. Melt half the butter in a wide frying pan over medium heat. Add the cabbage and cook for 5–7 minutes, stirring occasionally, until tender with a little bite. If it starts to catch, add a splash of water and let it evaporate.
Drain the potatoes well, then return them to the warm pan for a minute to steam dry. Mash with the remaining butter and fold in the cabbage. Taste and season with salt and plenty of black pepper. Spoon into the baking dish, rough up the surface with a fork and scatter the grated cheddar evenly over it.
Bake uncovered for 20–25 minutes, until the cheese bubbles and the ridges turn golden. For a darker crust, finish under a hot grill for a minute or two, watching closely. Let the dish stand for five minutes before serving. Anyone who’s been hovering near the oven has probably already claimed a corner.
