Hachis Parmentier: France’s Best-Kept Comfort Food Secret

Hachis Parmentier is the French answer to shepherd’s pie, the comforting, belly-hugging classic that warms both the stomach and the soul. It’s a dish that manages to be elegant and rustic at the same time—like the culinary equivalent of a well-dressed Parisian who still knows how to roll up their sleeves and get to work.

The name comes from Antoine-Augustin Parmentier, an 18th-century nutritionist and potato evangelist who basically staged the biggest PR campaign in history for the humble spud. Back in his day, the French considered potatoes fit only for livestock or, at best, famine food. But Parmentier, having survived on potatoes during a stint in a Prussian prison, was determined to change that. He threw lavish dinner parties featuring potatoes in every conceivable form, even getting Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette on board. Eventually, the French gave in, and the potato’s reputation was rehabilitated. Hachis, meaning “chopped” in French, refers to the finely minced beef that forms the meaty foundation of this dish.

Hachis Parmentier is one of those democratic dishes—whether it’s made with leftover roast beef, slow-braised meat, or even duck confit, it’s always topped with a silky, buttery layer of mashed potatoes and baked until golden. The classic version sticks to beef, onion, garlic, and perhaps a bit of tomato or stock for moisture, but regional variations abound. In some parts of France, you’ll find it laced with cheese (because why wouldn’t you?), while others might add carrots or celery for extra depth. The luxurious take swaps beef for duck or lamb, sometimes with a hint of truffle.

What makes Hachis Parmentier special is that it’s simultaneously refined and deeply homely. It’s the kind of dish that makes you feel cared for—whether you’re in a bustling Parisian bistro or your grandmother’s kitchen. It doesn’t shout; it reassures. And the best part? It’s built on leftovers, meaning it’s as practical as it is delicious.

To drink, a medium-bodied red wine is your best bet. A Bordeaux or a Côtes du Rhône will stand up nicely to the rich meat and creamy potatoes. If you’re feeling a bit rebellious, a dry cider would bring a bright contrast.

Complementing the dish is easy—just keep it simple. A crisp green salad with a mustardy vinaigrette cuts through the richness, while a side of haricots verts (that’s green beans, but fancier) adds a bit of texture. If you’re going all in, a hunk of crusty baguette and some cornichons on the side bring extra contrast and crunch.

Health-wise, Hachis Parmentier is hearty but adaptable. Swap out some of the butter for olive oil, use lean beef, or sneak in some extra veg. The potatoes bring a good dose of vitamin C and potassium, while the protein from the beef makes it a satisfying meal. It’s comfort food, yes, but one that can be nudged towards the wholesome end of the spectrum.

Finding Hachis Parmentier outside of France requires a bit of luck. It’s a staple in traditional French brasseries, particularly in Paris and Lyon, but it doesn’t always make it onto the menus of more modern establishments. If you’re in London, a good French bistro might have it as a daily special. Otherwise, your best bet is to roll up your sleeves and make it yourself.

For that, here’s how to do it:

Hachis Parmentier Recipe

Ingredients:

• 500g minced beef (or leftover cooked beef, finely chopped)
• 1 onion, finely diced
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 carrot, finely diced (optional but recommended)
• 1 tbsp tomato paste
• 100ml beef stock or red wine
• 1 tsp fresh thyme leaves
• 1 bay leaf
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 1kg potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
• 100ml milk (warm)
• 50g butter
• 50g grated Gruyère or Comté cheese (optional but delicious)
• A pinch of nutmeg
• Olive oil for frying

Method: Heat a splash of olive oil in a pan and cook the onion, garlic, and carrot until softened. Add the beef and cook until browned. Stir in the tomato paste, stock, thyme, bay leaf, salt, and pepper, letting it simmer until slightly reduced.

Meanwhile, boil the potatoes until tender. Drain and mash with warm milk, butter, salt, pepper, and a pinch of nutmeg. For extra silkiness, use a potato ricer.

Preheat the oven to 200°C. Spoon the meat mixture into a baking dish, removing the bay leaf. Spread the mashed potatoes over the top and, if using, sprinkle with cheese.

Bake for 25 minutes or until golden and bubbling. Let it rest for a few minutes before serving.

Serve with a simple salad, a glass of good wine, and a smug sense of satisfaction. Bon appétit!